The End is Here; AKA The Adventures of “el Churro” Around Latin America

The end is here, there is a global pandemic, you are all going to die, live in fear!!!!! That’s right, stay home and live vicariously through me, I am going to Mexico.

What I have been up to with my free time.

I wasn’t going to do a trip report, didn’t post up Indonesia 2018, or Europe 2019, but a week in and I have had so many little breakdowns I have to laugh, ok if it is going to be one of those trips I might as well try and document it. I wasn’t going to do one because Mexico has requested only essential travel occur so that they can do what they need to to handle this FAKE COVID BS, and I am not trying to encourage people to disregard this. Yet at the same time they have never closed the border, and it is their responsibility to control who comes in and out. I can socially distance with ease from my motorcycle, and our money goes a long way in helping people down here, especially now so it is what it is, I am here.

How did I end up here when I was over in Vietnam working remotely…well I will tell you how. I found myself a job working remotely, so headed to Vietnam to make the most of it and get some travel in where I could. Unfortunately I am probably the dumbest person on this planet, the job sucked so I gave my notice in Dec to quit, decided I was going to travel around Asia with the little bit of cash I had, then found myself on a plane headed for the USA in January as pretty much the whole world shutdown.

COVID#@!

So finally, the reason you are hear, the legendary “el Churro”. Purchased about 2 weeks before the trip, mostly due to what was available on craigslist at the time. It had sat for a decade, but only has 7K on it. It sat super low so I assumed it had been lowered but do not know how high a KLR should sit. The woman selling it didn’t have a ton of info, her husband has sadly passed away so she was just getting rid of it. I threw some wrenches at it, Mexico was calling, so a running bike is pretty much good enough for now.

The Legend

I already had the Mosko gear, MotoCam M1 system, and Garmin Montana cradle on the WR250, so threw them on the KLR and purchased some dirt-racks, an IMS tank, and some Tusk Bar protector thingys. I also replaced the doo-hickey with what I thought was preventative maintenance, but once I opened the case I found it was already broken. Fished out the broken piece with a magnet, and installed the Eagle Mike doo-hickey. Greased the suspension, replaced all fluids, new tires, front wheel bearings with the back set packed in my bag waiting for me to get around to it….and I wired up about half of my accessories successfully. Good enough!

Top piece was floating around my engine case, not good!

Finally all back together I took el Churro on the shake down ride a day or two before departure. I took off for a long trip up into the mountains, on some fantastic backroads having no idea where I was, or where I was going. I had installed the 10 gallon IMS tank, so it feels like I have fuel for weeks, what I found out I didn’t have……vacuum (Problem #1). Mid afternoon I had a bunch of gas but not as much as I would have been comfortable with, and after riding 30 miles from any place that might have gas I passed a sign that said there was no gas for the next 40 miles. No problem I would fill up here if there had been a place to do so, but I am good as is so decide to move on rather than turn back. My phone died a few hours ago though, so I don’t love the decision. Well, that vacuum thing, is what gets the last 3 gallons from my tank, so despite having gas, I ran out, I told you I was dumb who one earth runs out of gas when they have gas in the tank! Oh great, I am really in the middle of nowhere, but recall reading I can lay the bike on its side and get the gas that is not being sucked up, so give that a shot. Success, I push on, and need to tip the bike over at least 5 more times before making it back to civilization.

Getting Ready

el Churro handles pretty well, but I don’t know what a KLR should be like, and previously mentioned I thought it was lowered. Well, the next evening I loaded el Churro and headed for San Diego. After getting gas I parked under a street light to check my phone, and el Churro fell over, which isn’t normal for a parked motorcycle (Problem #2). I picked that heavy bitch up and took a look at the shock, which was covered in oil. Hmm, maybe the shock had always been bad and it wasn’t lowered after all, not really sure, though there is no pogo-ing which I have read happens when it goes. So I started thinking the shock was bad, asked the guys on ADVRider if I could continue to Mexico as is and deal with it later, this is what poor people do plus I had that schedule thing I normally hate so much. The short answer was yes you can continue but you should really fix it in the US it will be easier, quicker, and cheaper. Cheaper sounds good, but after calling around I found out I would have to chill in SD for a week as no one had a shock in stock. In typical KLR fashion I decided to ignore it, added some zip ties to fix up my GPS, and now prop the other side of the motorcycle up with a small side stand, but it has fallen over at least 4 more times thus far. Now the guys on ADVRider gave me great advice, suggested I not proceed, but I politely ignored them as there is no way in hell a shock is going to stop me from getting to Mexico!

Def a KLR

Being based out of San Diego previously, Tecate is my crossing of choice. A quick, easy, beautiful drive only adding 45 min between San Diego and Ensenada, worth skipping TJ and Rosarito traffic, though I have done that route several times as well. I grabbed some Mexican auto insurance just before crossing the border as that is mandatory. 1 year was about 200 dollars for just liability, you can get better deals with more reliable companies if you plan ahead, but planning is for wusses.

After parking my moto on the Mex side, I had to request entrance to go through the turnstile to get to the office, the guy asked why I wanted it, and radioed in for permission, I simply told him I was taking the ferry to Mazatlan. They radioed back that I was good to enter at which point he gave me a badge with a number. This is not normal and most likely due to covid. I then headed to the office for my FMM and TIP.

Here is a description on how to do the Tecate crossing:
Tecate Mexico crossing with picture to explain process

FMM is basically a tourist visa valid up to 6 months, and required for all of Meixco. The TIP is a temporary vehicle import also up to 6 months, only needed for the Mainland with an exception or two in various free zones of in all of Baja, and parts of Sonora, and Quintaroo, possible others but not important to my needs. In Baja as mentioned, it is not needed, but it would be unwise to be driving without it anywhere incase of an accident, so I always get both just to be safe. If you are only driving to Cabo and not taking the ferry you do not technically need it.

It was already noon as I had run some errands in SD, so decided I would grab a hotel in Ensenada rather than push further. Ensenada was pretty empty as expected with the covid deal, but there were people around, and everything was generally open. I grabbed some delicious food, and even walked down to the malecon which I had never done on previous trips, but really it was just a place to stop and relax. I had ordered a bunch of parts the past two weeks, and had a few sent ahead to San Diego as they wouldn’t be in LA in time. In the Ensenada hotel I got an email that my helmet screws had finally come in after 2 weeks…haha yeah right I am not going back for that, this hardware store screw will be good enough for this type of trip.

I have been to Ensenada several times, and now realize I took zero pics.

After grabbing some breakfast I finally get a late start out of there. I make it about 45 minutes South when my helmet visor starts rattling…shit, I already know I lost the other good screw (Problem #3). Son of a bitch, gas tank not working properly, no problem. A broken shock, who needs it. But a helmet screw, my world just fell apart. Now I could have found a hardware store in Ensenada and got a screw, but when it isn’t held in properly the visor wont stay open, or closed, or in between ect. I slapped some duct tape on to keep it open a crack for airflow, and quickly realized there was no way that would work, as I must open and close it 100 times day depending on weather, checkponts, etc. Sigh, I pull a u-turn and head back to the US with my tail between my legs, all because of a screw. So that is the end off my Mexican adventure, thank you for following along.

Not a chance

Just kidding, I got the screw AND blue locktite, and figured I should get a GPS mount, and an old man comfort seat, and then before they banned me for ignoring essential travel, snuck back into Mexico crossing over in Arizona to make up time. Next stop, Sonora Mexico!

I am in.


2 thoughts on “The End is Here; AKA The Adventures of “el Churro” Around Latin America

  1. I have just aged another 5 years 😥. At my age, I won’t be around much longer. Please be careful and don’t take avoidable chances.
    Love you.

  2. Lol, “The End is Here” aint that the truth?!? I was just saying that the other day! A house divided cannot stand and that is what is happening to our nation! The lies, double standards and control for power 🤦🏻‍♀️

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